As we wrote previously, we installed a dishwasher – and sat it on top of our washing machine. Currently, the only place where we had space _and_ water in reach …
But operating the washing machine not astonishingly proved very unstable – at least for the dishwasher. So, we decided to create a luxurious frame to sit the dishwasher and hold in place when the washing machine was spinning.
Not being agile but very waterfall, I needed a concept first. So, I fired up my trusted CAD programme and started sketching …
4x2s intersected with other 4x2s surrounded by 6x2s – that was the way to go.
So, first I cut the intersections of the 4x2s and used chop saw and chisel to get the cross sections.
Later on, we added 6x2s so the dishwasher would not fall off. And at the end, not visible on the images, we added a strap around both devices to stop the dishwasher from bouncing off – just in case …
Now we have a washing tower – until we move it into our new kitchen. And this is all I can tell. See for yourself.
Cutting the Frame for the Washing Tower
Washing machine in action with finished Frame and Dishwasher on top
We definitely moved beyond Maslow’s pyramid and introduced a dishwasher to our ever growing list of utilities – which by the way fits nicely next to our Saurer 2DM … It is a Siemens iQ300 SN23EC03ME which is also driven by our DAB Esybox Mini 3.
What we found out so far:
Water consumption is much higher than advertised even when using the 45°C/45min programme.
Power consumption seems slightly higher than advertised as well with a peak consumption of around 2200W.
But all in all, we still save time, water *and* power compared to washing up by hand. And this holds true even for much less energy efficient dishwashers with an energy star rating of D or worse.
So, next time I buy a dishwasher I think twice if I spend a 100 quid extra on a more power efficient device – especially, when using solar for most of the year …
Dishwsher Siemens iQ300 SN23EC03ME on top of a washing machine driven by a DAB Esybox Mini 3
Now, that we got our Toyota HiAce we thought it might be a good idea to add more power to the vehicle: in form of an 8s EVE LF280K LiFePO4 battery and a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 inverter/charger. In the following, we describe our setup and the reason why we built it like this.
The Requirements
The sustained output power of the inverter must be over 1'200W.
Charging via AC via EVSE or generator must be possible.
Charging via alternator must be possible (but is not the norm).
Charging of 60% of the battery (from 20% – 80%) via AC should take less than 180min.
The installation should use the minimum amount of space possible.
We should be able to use our existing Eve LF280K cells, thus limiting the overall current to 140A.
As the vehicle will not have a diesel heater, it should be possible to run a 150W infrared heater for at least 3 * (4+2)h = 18h (^= 2'700Wh).
In addition, the battery should be able to run a refrigerator with an average power consumption of 50W for at least 72h ^= 3'600Wh (next to other power consumption).
Design Considerations
With a maximum current of 140A and a cable run length of 1.5m, we should plan with a cross section of at least 35mm2.
Basically, with Eve LF280K cells we have three choices regarding the battery size:
1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration 4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 3'584Wh This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 716.8W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration 2* 4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 112A/h.
1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration 8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
The Victron MultiPlus Compact xx/1600VA inverter/charger provides enough sustained power output (while being smaller than the non-Compact edition). Depending on the voltage of the battery, this will slightly impact the amount of charge current.
To charge the battery via the alternator we would need a DC/DC converter that depends on the battery configuration as well (either 12-12 or 12-24). So, let’s have a look at the battery first.
1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
The smallest, lightest and cheapest configuration. But capacity requirements regarding the fridge are only fulfilled, if there are no other loads. In addition, the discharge current is relatively high (scratching the maximum discharge rate of 0.5C).
2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
More complex setup, as each battery needs a separate BMS, which leads to the need of an aggregator for both batteries to correctly report SoC and calculate CCL and DCL. In addition, more cabling and fusing is required (and probably to a large bus bar). Comes with the advantage of having a redundant battery in case a single battery fails. Most expensive configuration.
1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration
Custom battery build needed, as there is not enough space for a typical 2 * 4 cells setup behind he seats. But, only a single BMS and thus less wiring is needed. Comes with a slight disadvantage of not having native 12V from the battery. This is actually not an isse, as all our DC devices also accept 24V. Cells can better balance voltage differences across a single 8s bank.
The Setup
In the end, I decided for the 8s configuration, due to less complexity. Splitting the 8s configuration across two cell blocks seemed to be an acceptable compromise.
As a regular MultiPlus 24/1600/40-16 would not fulfill my AC charge requirements, I had to decide to either add a second MultiPlus or to add a dedicated charger. I opted for a Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger 24/25 instead of a second MultiPlus. The MultiPlus in parallel would always consume 10W though most of the time I would not need the output power. Whereas, the Phoenix would only need power, when connected to AC. And reconfiguring the MultiPlus every time I charge was not an option for me. And yes, I lose redundancy – but also save some money (Phoenix is much cheaper). So, in the end the nominal charge power is 40A + 25A = 65A, which lets me charge at 1'560W reaching 60% within 165min.
The HiAce comes with a 70A alternator, so I chose a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15 DC-DC Charger. With this charger, I could run the engine in standby and still have the car heater running. And this is probably the predominant use case (if charging via alternator at all).
For the DC bus bar I went for a Victron Lynx Distributor, so I could use and install MEGA fuses. Having a 1’000A bus bar seems certainly overkill, but a separate bus bar and fuse box that accepts 35mm2 cable and MEGA fuses would be not be much smaller.
I changed the existing AC inlet of the HiAce to Neutrik PowerCON True1 TOP (congrats to the marketing department, I am still amazed how this name rolls of the tongue) and installed 2 Siemens compact 16A CRCBOs (external AC in, internal AC out). I am aware that theoretically I could support more than 16A on the internal AC out (via PowerAssist). If ever needed, I can replace the RCBO with a 20A version.
I added a VE.Bus Smart Dongle to the MultiPlus and opted against a complete (Raspberry-based) GX installation. The reason, I keep a USBMK3 with me anyway (in case I need to reconfigure the MultiPlus) and still have (Bluetooth) access to the most important settings and information of the MultiPlus. With the GX, I would to be running a WiFi hotspot (and consuming more energy as well). The disadvanage of not being able to use DVCC with information from the BMS is clear to me and accepted.
I selected a B2A8S20P JK-BMS that has an integrated 2A balancer and an RS485, CAN and heat port. In case, I ever add a GX device, I am still able to connect them and use DVCC.
The Specs
Nominal power (“capacity”) 8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
Maximum discharge power 1’600VA (1'280W, capped by the inverter) with a maximum current of 80A/63A/55A (at 2.5V/3.2V/3.65V)
Maximum AC charge power 1'560W
AC Charging from 20% – 80% in 165min
Maximum DC charge power 360W
MultiPlus self-power consumption 10W
The Build
As mentioned before, due to space constraints I had to split the battery in 2 parts (with each having 4 cells). Instead of using utz RAKO boxes I used 12mm (sanded) plywood which I did not screw together but tied down with a banding/tensioning tool and a ratchet strap. With this setup, I can easily access und disassemble the cells if needed, while still having a sturdy case. Both cell blocks are connected with a (blue) Anderson SB175 connector.
The BMS itself is mounted to the side of one of the cases (I took extra care to use short screws, in order not to drill into the cell casing). I used M6 Weidmüller 35mm2 90° angled compression cable lug to get the wire away from the BMS and into the bus bar. All other compression cable lugs are DIN 46235 from Klauke (M6 35mm2 on the cells, and M8 16mm2/35mm2 on the bus bar).
The AC and DC wires are all Eland H07RN-F (except for the last two points):
Charger to bus bar, battery to bus bar: 35mm2
Cell block to cell block: 2 * 35mm2
Alternator to DC-DC converter, DC-DC converter to bus bar: 16mm2
External AC in to RCBO, RCBO to inverter/charger (both directions), RCBO to internal AC out: 3G2.5mm2
For the connection of the Inverter/charger to the bus bar, I used the Victron installed 25mm2 welding cables.
Images
The installation is barely visible behind the seatsView from the back with preliminary wiringConnection of cell blocks with SB175 connectors, cell block 2 and DC-DC converterLynx Distributor with cell block 1Inverter/charger with space for second charger and cell block 2 (left)
Note: the Phoenix charger is not visible on the images, as I am still waiting for it to be delivered.
Charging via EVSE
Conclusion
We now have more than 7'000Wh of additional energy without losing any storage space for roughly 2'850 CHF/2’500 GBP (parts without labour). We can survive an extended weekend of 72h without recharging while still being able to enjoy amenities as using a coffee machine, heating and refrigerator. In case of longer periods of usage, we can recharge at any EVSE, or via shore power. And in emergencies, we can also charge via our Honda EU10i or via the alternator of the vehicle.
The battery is placed directly over the engine which helps in cold weather conditions to easily warm up the batteries to a chargeable level.
So, this will be another rant about online retailers and their delivery strategies in the Highlands.
A couple of days ago, I ordered _the_ missing piece for our barn: a washing machine. Having had good experience with Siemens, I went for a similar model that I already have in Switzerland, the Siemens iQ700 WI14W502GB. I wish I had that iQ. chapeau to Siemens product management and markting.
As I found it relatively hard to find Siemens retailers in the UK for that model, I ended up with John Lewis & Partners. Never heard of them before, but as it seemed they were an official Siemens reseller.
During order and checkout, I was told that the item would be delivered _usually_ withing 7 working days. Of course, the word “ususally” usually leaves room for variance and interpretation. And I got a “free delivery” and assurance they would call me within 2 working days after the order to arrange a delivery date. No “usually” there.
Order confirmation email from John Lewis & Partners
So, what happened next? I never got the promised call, but after a couple of days, actually after 7 working days, I received another mail telling me the item had been dispatched. So, no arrangement of a delivery date.
Item dispatch notice after 7 working days
So, I waited another 24 hours as noted in the email to get the tracking link, so I could see in advance when the item was supposed to arrive. No luck that. Every day I checked the link, it only said “Tracking coming soon”.
John Lewis order details and no tracking link
Surprisingly, today I got a phone call from a delivery guy, telling me he was about to deliver an appliance. Unfortunately, I just left the property for some other tasks.
Now, less than 2h later and 10 working days after my order, my neighbour received the washing machine for me – with the tracking information still “coming soon” and me having to move the machine later on to my plot.
I would have thought that online retailers in 2023 could do better. – Hmm wait, I actually know online retailers that do better (for years).
Any “Customer Happiness Engineers” at John Lewis & Partners reading this?
And this is the end of today’s story about the delivery of a washing machine in the Highlands.