Hyundai HY1000Si as a cheaper replacement for the Honda EU10i

In one of our previous articles I wrote about the Honda EU10i as a backup generator for charging batteries via a Victron MultiPlus. Now as the supply chain has stabilised, the only noticable downside of this generator, that it will set you back a 1'000+ CHF (and even 1'000+ GBP in the UK). As we plan to equip our HiAce, Hilux, 2DM and possibly our trailer with such a generator this really adds up. So, I started looking for something cheaper – but hopefully equally robust, enduring and sturdy.

The requirements were basically unchanged. We want a generator that

  • is light
    less than 20kg including fuel
  • has a sustainable output of over 3.5A @230V
    as the MultiPlus-II 48/5000/70 has a minimum AC input limit of 3.5A
  • in combination with a MultiPlus 1600VA and PowerAssist must be able to provide more than 2'000W
    (which is already fulfilled when delivering more than 3.5A by itself)
  • generates more than 1'000Wh/l
  • must have an internal tank
  • generates more than 8'500Wh with the internal tank and an additional 5l tank
  • must be running petrol or diesel (the latter very unlikely in that weight range)
  • should be quiet
    the less noisy the better, no hard specs here
  • (optional) can be paired with another model to double the output
  • must have an automatic shutdown in case of oil issues and overload
  • must have an ECO mode
  • manual starter
    i.e. no battery needed for starting the generator
  • a seller with a service center from UK, CH or EU (preferrably DE/AT) for filing warranty claims if necessary

On AliExpress, eBay and Amazon there are quite some models for very little money. However, I also have very little trust (if there is such thing at all) in those product offerings.

So, when I did some modern research (i.e. googling around the internet) I came across three models:

  1. Hyundai HY1000Si (350 GBP)
  2. P1PE P1000i (300 GBP)
    formally known as Position One Power Equipment (kudos to the marketing department for such an intriguing brand name)
  3. Scheppach SG800 (200 EUR)

But before I go into detail here is a summary of the comparison:

Comparison of selected generators

Hyundai HY1000Si

This is the model I am most likely to buy (if I want to save money over buying the Honda EU10i).

Except for size, weight and price all its specs do not match the Honda EU10i (regardless of the slightly larger tank).

With a total advertised runtime of 3h it can produce 2'700W (which is the equivalent of roughly over a third of the nominal capacity of an 8s 280Ah battery – compared to nearly a half for the EU10i).

So unless we intend to use the generator only seldomly this would make a real (negative) difference in:

  • usability
    more frequent usage pattern, more refuelling operations
  • maintainability
    due to more service hours and material wear-off
    and efficiency
    longer runtime, more fuel consumption, more labour.

Compared to the Honda EU10i (which some consider the “gold standard”) there is relatively little information to be found about this generator (especially no thorough reviews).

Further note: From the advertised information the generator comes with some tools and replacement parts and even oil (which is an advantage over the Honda).

P1PE P1000i

Not a brand I have heard from before. It is a brand in the UK sold by the same company, GenPower Ltd, that is also the distributor for the Hyundai generators. And they heavily claim to use Hyundai engines as well. So much in fact, that at first sight it seems they *are* Hyundai generators.

The data sheet is to be questioned. A total runtime of 8.5h @50% load is advertised and no mentioning of any fuel consumption at 100% load. In the data sheet a fuel consumption of 550g/kWh is mentioned. With a specific weight of 740g/l for petrol this would equate to 0.74l/kWh which is not in line with the previous statement of 8.5h of runtime at 450W which would result in 0.78l/kWh. This would only “add up” with an assumed specific weight of 700g/l. And with petrols like E7 or E10 the specific weight will more likely further increase as in reduce. Furthermore, a generator running at 100% load is not expected to be as efficient as if it was running at 50% load. I am not saying that the 40ml/h make so much of a difference (it is slightly 5% off). I just get curious when the technical data sheet more looks like a marketing brochure. So, I would rather estimate a runtime of 4h at full load which would result in 0.83l/kWh or 1204Wh/l.

As P1PE seems to use the same Hyundai engines their increased efficiency over the HY1000Si would have to be in the “inverter” or electronics part of the generator. I do not find it likely that the cheaper model would have more efficient ingredients than the Hyundai model.

Scheppach SG800

A brand I have not heard from before either. Efficiency is not its strength and as I did not find it anywhere stocked, I merely list it here as an interesting option because of its form factor.

With only 800W this generator seems to be on the weaker end. But with only 8.5kg and a 3l tank it makes it up for its lack of efficiency and output capacity.

This might be an option where one really only rarely uses the generator. And then only to charge a battery (which is exactly what we aim for).

The price is debatable as I could not find it anywhere ready for order.

Summary

The choice for these small generators is rather small. If we were open for larger and heavier models the 2'000W range of inverters would provide a much broader selection (also with a higher price tag).

So, to come to a conclusion: it’s mainly price over efficiency and loudness. Is the spending of 2.5 times more justified for a generator which I only want to use in edge cases? For our use case, probably not.

Electric Installation in our Toyota HiAce 1994

Now, that we got our Toyota HiAce we thought it might be a good idea to add more power to the vehicle: in form of an 8s EVE LF280K LiFePO4 battery and a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 inverter/charger. In the following, we describe our setup and the reason why we built it like this.

The Requirements

  1. The sustained output power of the inverter must be over 1'200W.
  2. Charging via AC via EVSE or generator must be possible.
  3. Charging via alternator must be possible (but is not the norm).
  4. Charging of 60% of the battery (from 20% – 80%) via AC should take less than 180min.
  5. The installation should use the minimum amount of space possible.
  6. We should be able to use our existing Eve LF280K cells, thus limiting the overall current to 140A.
  7. As the vehicle will not have a diesel heater, it should be possible to run a 150W infrared heater for at least 3 * (4+2)h = 18h (^= 2'700Wh).
  8. In addition, the battery should be able to run a refrigerator with an average power consumption of 50W for at least 72h ^= 3'600Wh (next to other power consumption).

Design Considerations

  • With a maximum current of 140A and a cable run length of 1.5m, we should plan with a cross section of at least 35mm2.
  • Basically, with Eve LF280K cells we have three choices regarding the battery size:
    • 1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
      4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 3'584Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 716.8W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
    • 2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
      2* 4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 112A/h.
    • 1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration
      8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
  • The Victron MultiPlus Compact xx/1600VA inverter/charger provides enough sustained power output (while being smaller than the non-Compact edition). Depending on the voltage of the battery, this will slightly impact the amount of charge current.
  • To charge the battery via the alternator we would need a DC/DC converter that depends on the battery configuration as well (either 12-12 or 12-24). So, let’s have a look at the battery first.

1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration

The smallest, lightest and cheapest configuration. But capacity requirements regarding the fridge are only fulfilled, if there are no other loads. In addition, the discharge current is relatively high (scratching the maximum discharge rate of 0.5C).

2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration

More complex setup, as each battery needs a separate BMS, which leads to the need of an aggregator for both batteries to correctly report SoC and calculate CCL and DCL. In addition, more cabling and fusing is required (and probably to a large bus bar). Comes with the advantage of having a redundant battery in case a single battery fails. Most expensive configuration.

1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration

Custom battery build needed, as there is not enough space for a typical 2 * 4 cells setup behind he seats. But, only a single BMS and thus less wiring is needed. Comes with a slight disadvantage of not having native 12V from the battery. This is actually not an isse, as all our DC devices also accept 24V. Cells can better balance voltage differences across a single 8s bank.

The Setup

In the end, I decided for the 8s configuration, due to less complexity. Splitting the 8s configuration across two cell blocks seemed to be an acceptable compromise.

As a regular MultiPlus 24/1600/40-16 would not fulfill my AC charge requirements, I had to decide to either add a second MultiPlus or to add a dedicated charger. I opted for a Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger 24/25 instead of a second MultiPlus. The MultiPlus in parallel would always consume 10W though most of the time I would not need the output power. Whereas, the Phoenix would only need power, when connected to AC. And reconfiguring the MultiPlus every time I charge was not an option for me. And yes, I lose redundancy – but also save some money (Phoenix is much cheaper). So, in the end the nominal charge power is 40A + 25A = 65A, which lets me charge at 1'560W reaching 60% within 165min.

The HiAce comes with a 70A alternator, so I chose a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15 DC-DC Charger. With this charger, I could run the engine in standby and still have the car heater running. And this is probably the predominant use case (if charging via alternator at all).

For the DC bus bar I went for a Victron Lynx Distributor, so I could use and install MEGA fuses. Having a 1’000A bus bar seems certainly overkill, but a separate bus bar and fuse box that accepts 35mm2 cable and MEGA fuses would be not be much smaller.

I changed the existing AC inlet of the HiAce to Neutrik PowerCON True1 TOP (congrats to the marketing department, I am still amazed how this name rolls of the tongue) and installed 2 Siemens compact 16A C RCBOs (external AC in, internal AC out). I am aware that theoretically I could support more than 16A on the internal AC out (via PowerAssist). If ever needed, I can replace the RCBO with a 20A version.

I added a VE.Bus Smart Dongle to the MultiPlus and opted against a complete (Raspberry-based) GX installation. The reason, I keep a USB MK3 with me anyway (in case I need to reconfigure the MultiPlus) and still have (Bluetooth) access to the most important settings and information of the MultiPlus. With the GX, I would to be running a WiFi hotspot (and consuming more energy as well). The disadvanage of not being able to use DVCC with information from the BMS is clear to me and accepted.

I selected a B2A8S20P JK-BMS that has an integrated 2A balancer and an RS485, CAN and heat port. In case, I ever add a GX device, I am still able to connect them and use DVCC.

The Specs

  • Nominal power (“capacity”)
    8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
  • Maximum discharge power 1’600VA (1'280W, capped by the inverter)
    with a maximum current of 80A/63A/55A (at 2.5V/3.2V/3.65V)
  • Maximum AC charge power 1'560W
  • AC Charging from 20% – 80% in 165min
  • Maximum DC charge power 360W
  • MultiPlus self-power consumption 10W

The Build

As mentioned before, due to space constraints I had to split the battery in 2 parts (with each having 4 cells). Instead of using utz RAKO boxes I used 12mm (sanded) plywood which I did not screw together but tied down with a banding/tensioning tool and a ratchet strap. With this setup, I can easily access und disassemble the cells if needed, while still having a sturdy case. Both cell blocks are connected with a (blue) Anderson SB175 connector.

The BMS itself is mounted to the side of one of the cases (I took extra care to use short screws, in order not to drill into the cell casing). I used M6 Weidmüller 35mm2 90° angled compression cable lug to get the wire away from the BMS and into the bus bar. All other compression cable lugs are DIN 46235 from Klauke (M6 35mm2 on the cells, and M8 16mm2/35mm2 on the bus bar).

The AC and DC wires are all Eland H07RN-F (except for the last two points):

  • Charger to bus bar, battery to bus bar: 35mm2
  • Cell block to cell block: 2 * 35mm2
  • Alternator to DC-DC converter, DC-DC converter to bus bar: 16mm2
  • External AC in to RCBO, RCBO to inverter/charger (both directions), RCBO to internal AC out: 3G2.5mm2
  • For the balancer cables on the cell blocks I used WAGO 221 inline splicing connectors with levers and bullet connectors with 2.5mm2 wire and M6 ring terminals.
  • For the connection of the Inverter/charger to the bus bar, I used the Victron installed 25mm2 welding cables.

Images

The installation is barely visible behind the seats
View from the back with preliminary wiring
Connection of cell blocks with SB175 connectors, cell block 2 and DC-DC converter
Lynx Distributor with cell block 1
Inverter/charger with space for second charger and cell block 2 (left)

Note: the Phoenix charger is not visible on the images, as I am still waiting for it to be delivered.

Charging via EVSE

Conclusion

We now have more than 7'000Wh of additional energy without losing any storage space for roughly 2'850 CHF/2’500 GBP (parts without labour). We can survive an extended weekend of 72h without recharging while still being able to enjoy amenities as using a coffee machine, heating and refrigerator. In case of longer periods of usage, we can recharge at any EVSE, or via shore power. And in emergencies, we can also charge via our Honda EU10i or via the alternator of the vehicle.

The battery is placed directly over the engine which helps in cold weather conditions to easily warm up the batteries to a chargeable level.

The installation can be monitored via Bluetooth (Victron Connect and JK-BMS app).

Honda EU 10i: a perfect backup for the Victron MultiPlus-II 24/3000/70-32

In our trailers and vehicles I prefer 24V 8s batteries, as the price-weight-power triangle of our Eve 280Ah cells is hard to match. With a gross weight of roughly 55kg we get a nominal “capacity” of 7168Wh. Even at a low cell voltage of 2.7V we can still get more than 2400W (3000VA) out of the battery. Exactly what a Victron MultiPlus-II 24/3000/70-32 (or any 3000VA inverter/charger for that matter) can deliver.

The Honda EU 10i has a sustained output of 900W which equates to roughly 3.9A at 230V. Now, this is not too interesting by itself.

However, the minimum AC current input of the MultiPlus is 3.6A. So, exactly within the range of the Honda EU 10i. A 5000VA inverter for example, would drain the generator with its minimum input of 4.6A+. And with its fuel tank capacity of 2.1l it runs nearly 4h on full load. Which in turn means, I can charge our 24V 8s battery about 50% without refueling.

Note: ideally we would charge it from 25% up to 75% SoC.

So, for me this generator is the ideal backup when I am away without any EV station nearby. With its 13kg and small form factor (and price) there is always a place in my vehicles where I can put it.

And as a side benefit: when I run the generator along with the inverter I can generate up to 3300W (or over 14A). That is: run my oven and boil potatoes at the same time …

And the generator even makes sense when combined with a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 (or its 12V counterpart). They are the smallest inverters/chargers in that power range. They strong enough to run a coffee machine or immersion water heater, but are not pwoerful enough to run a full 2000W appliance. However, in combination with the Honda, they just reach 2180W. Of course, charging a 24V 8s battery with a “Compact” device takes much longer, due to its smaller charger.

Twitter – Honda EU 10i in action

Charging Leisure Batteries at Electric Vehicle Charging Stations

I am not the first and probably not the last, either. With leisure batteries becoming larger and larger, fuel becoming more and more expensive and the EV charging network better and better, I thought it was time to rethink charging leisure batteries in campervans, mobile homes and the like.

For example, in UK the Tesco run EV charging stations currently offer charging at 3700W/16A at 0.288 GBP/kW. This is actually cheaper than the rates I had last year when I rented a flat. And it is still slightly cheaper than the cost of power generation with my JCB generator.

As I restrict the charging of my EVE 280Ah cells to 125A, the maximum power to charge with is either 8* 3.2V * 125A = 3200W for a 8s 24V battery or 16* 3.2V * 125A = 6400W for a 16s 48V battery. But as of now, I only plan for 24V batteries in our vehicles. This means, that even with the lowest single phase Type 2 charger in a EV charging station we get more power (16A * 230V = 3680W) than the battery can be charged with.

With the help from Remo Fleischli of Mobilize I found two adapter cables from Elektroscout:

  1. A single phase Type 2 plug to a Swiss T23 socket, which I ordered with a “loose end” to connect a Neutrik powerCON TRUE1 TOP NAC3FX-W-TOP-L with it;
  2. and a single phase Type 2 socket to a Swiss T23 socket, which they call a “bike adapter” – this comes in handy at charging stations with a 3-phase Type 2 cable.

As a 24/3000 MultiPlus-II (or EasySolar-II) does only support charging of up to 70A (resulting in a nominal charging power of 24V * 70A = 1680W), we would still be 55A “short” of the desired maximum charge current of 125A. With the EasySolar-II GX or the MultiPlus-II GX there is no 24/5000 version and the MultiPlus-II 24/5000 uses considerably more power (18W vs 13W) and is way heavier (30kg vs 26kg [including MPPT charger] vs 20kg). In addition the inverter would be massively oversized as the maximum expected inverter power would be limited to 8* 3.65V * 125A = 3200W (^=4000VA), anyway.

So, I came to the conclusion the least expensive and space/cost-efficient solution would come in the form of a Victron Skylla-TG 24/50A Charger:

  1. Weight: 5.5kg
  2. Price around 500,00 GBP
  3. Dimensions: H 365mm * W 250mm * D 147mm

So, with the combined power of the EasySolar-II and the Skylla-TG (70A + 50A = 120A), I can now theoretically charge at 8 * 3.2V * 120A = 3072W – near the maximum supported power. As the charge current will probably reduce at around 80% SOC, my 24V battery can be charged from 40% to 80% within one hour – at a price of less than 30p per Kilowatt (or 90p the hour)!

Here a comparison with some smaller generators:

  1. a Honda EU10i will deliver 900W with 0.538l
    (around 1671W/l or 0.598l per 1000W)
  2. a Honda EU22i will deliver 1800W with 1.075l
    (around 1675W/l or 0.597l per 1000W)
  3. a Honda EU32i will deliver 2600W with 1.394l
    (around 1865W/l or 0.536l per 1000W)

If one liter of E7 costs roughly 1.50 GBP, the price per 1000W is between 0.80 GBP and 0.90 GBP.

Comparison of different charging options

And with a standard vehicle alternator of 100A the maximum charge current for a battery would not exceed 60A. So, a realistic amount of power to charge the battery with a running engine is around 12V * 60A = 720W. If we expect the vehicle to use 2l per hour running idle, the price for 1000W would sum up to over 4.17 GBP – not cheap.

Only the Honda EU32i comes near to the maximum charging power of 3200W/h. But the initial cost for the inverter and the price per 1000W is far beyond the cost of an additional AC charger, a Type 2 adapter and the energy cost at the EV charging station. And ideally, the energy from the EV charging station is “greener” than the energy from the vehicle or stand-alone generator.

Note: I did not write about solar panels at all. The reason for this is our special “use case” where we are mainly in northern europe where during autumn and winter there are very little hours of sunlight – at a time when we need energy the most. Plus, only two of our vehicles have actually space on the roof for solar panels.

This is my current take on charging larger leisure batteries. What is your opinion on this?