BYD Battery-Box LVS Premium 8.0 vs. Pylontech 2* US3000C

In one of our last posts we wrote about the upcoming, yet to be built, electricity setup in the vNext Car.

And now we changed our plans – slightly. Before deciding definitely for the Pylontech as the battery supplier, we thought we would install and test a comparable setup with both BYD and Pylontech.

Why did we do that? Having a look at the US3000C specs, we see that the recommended (dis)charge current is considerably lower than those from BYD (37A vs 65A). Of course, both batteries supply higher currents than that (74A vs 90A). But the cables sizes of the Pylontech box only supports a maximum of 2*100A, whereas the B-Box supports up to 250A. This maximum recommended current makes a difference when only having 2 batteries at your disposal, as the maximum surge current of the Victron MultiPlus II 48/3000 inverter is 5500W. So with Pylontech I can only support 2* 37A * 48V = 3552W without going over the recommended current and with BYD I can draw 2 * 65A * 48V = 6240W which is over the supported maximum of the inverter. So this is an advantage for BYD. Plus the overall capacity of BYD is higher (and comes at a larger weight).

Consequences and some calculation

But of course this has a drawback, as I want to use a DC Circuit Breaker with an integrated isolator, instead of a mains switch and a regular one-time fuse for the batteries. Most of the DC breakers only work up to a 63A and the larger ones are considerably more expensive.

On the other hand, the guarantee and fine-print with BYD declares indicated values are only achieved at a 0.2C rating, meaning that I could only constantly draw a 8000Wh * 0.2C = 1600W anyway, if I wanted to make use of the whole capacity (100% DoD).

Unfortunately I could find no C rating for Pylontech. However, in their warranty, Pylontech writes that the denoted values are only achieved when (dis)charging at 10A per battery (95% DoD). If I calculate this correctly, this would be an equivalent of roughly 2* 10A / (2 * 3374Wh / 51.2V) = 0.15C. In both cases the inverter should only much less than needed to support an induction cooktop and frankly any two devices at a time.

As a side note: Interestingly the B-Box seems to be cheaper per kWh than the Pylontech (as long as you stick with a single battery group).

So what does this mean?

In either case I will overrun the C rating of both batteries, meaning I will not get the full “official” capacity or life-time out of it. On the other hand, for our car installation this will not make much of a difference, as the Safiery Scotty DC-DC charger will recharge the batteries anytime when needed.

But when designing a complete off-grid system this will make a difference, as there we probably want to achieve a maximum amount of usable capacity and life-time.

But anyway, I will be making two installations and compare them in respect of the ISO25010 main product characteristic categories:

  • one installation with BYD Battery-Box LVS Premium 8.0 and
  • one with a pair of Pylontech US3000C batteries.

The B-Box has already been ordered. For Pylontech I am still awaiting a confirmation of the quote.

I keep you posted.

Update

Due to the difficulties of getting Pylontech batteries I had to skip the test and go straight for the BYD Battery-Box. See here for how it runs next to our caravan.

But even the delivery time for the BYD was months. So, in the end I decided to build the batteries from EVE LF280K cells myself.

Appendix: Pylontech Documentation

Pylontech Documentation as this does not really seem to be available on their website.

If you read the warranty card carefully, we see that the warranty extension from three to seven years has to be taken with a grain of salt. In addition, the replacement process (even to dead-on-arrive) is not

Toyota Hilux 2.4D 4×4 2020 with a 250A Alternator

Toyota Hilux 2.4D 2020 with a Safiery 250A Alternator

Our current Hilux is from early 2020 with a 2.4D engine and has a built-in 100A alternator which is frankly quite underpowered to quickly charge our 2 * 12.8V 200Ah Liontron batteries. When I installed 3* Victron Smart Orion-Tr 12-12 30A DC-DC chargers, I could only use 2 of them at a time.

When I talked to the guy who sold us the car, to get an upgrade, I was told, there is no bigger alternator than 100A and no room for a 2nd alternator in the engine compartment. What a pity.

However, when I talked to Bruce from Safiery, he told me my Hilux could run their 250A alternator as well.

Safiery 250A Alternator

As I wanted to swap my batteries and upgrade to a 48V system anyway, I today ordered the alternator and along with it I went for a 3kW Scotty as well.

I am really curious of how this works out.

New car – new electricity

48 system in a car and running everything from AC.

We are getting ready for our next car. Or at least start thinking about it. Roughly, we want something like a MB Sprinter (short version, normal roof) and built the interior ourselves. And of course, when doing this, electricity is one part of it.

In this post we give a brief explanation of our requirements, use cases and possible solutions we came up with.

Storage capacity in our existing Toyota is 5’120Wh brutto with two Liontron 12V @200Ah batteries costing around 1’990,00 CHF, which makes 0,77 CHF / Wh. For our next van we would like to increase the storage capacity and the larger inverter, but keep cost down if possible. Currently we use 35mm2 cables to run our 1’200W inverter, so to run a larger inverter we would have to increase cable sizes in our system significantly – or increase voltage size.

After some thinking, we opted for a 48V system (rather unusual for a car) with two Pylontech Us3000 batteries summing up to a net capacity of 6’400Wh. Considering the price for the batteries (arund 1’730,00 CHF each) this would lower the price to 0,54 CHF / Wh. With this capacity we could run an 3000VA / 2400W inverter and cable sizes could then even stay the same.

However, the main problem with that setup would be to get 48V from a 12V alternator. But luckily, we are not the first tasked with this problem and Safiery has a solution just for that: Safiery Scotty 12V-48V DC/DC converter at different power levels (1000W, 1500W, 3000W). As the car engine would have a 250A alternator, the setup could really benefit from even the largest model. Ideally the DC/DC converter would be installed in the engine compartment, in order to minimise the relative voltage drop on the way into pssenger area.

As we currently do not have a fixed solar system, this is definitely something on our wishlist. But with that large DC/DC inverter and the fact that we are not staying for days at a single spot without moving the van, the initial cost for 400W solar panels just do not seem to be justified. So, we thought we prepare everything, so we can later still install solar panels without having to redo a lot of installation work. Enter Victron Energy EasySolar-II 48/3000/35-32 MPPT 250/70 GX. Now, how does this roll of the tongue?

But in fact, that system really looks promising: in a H 499mm x W 268mm x D 237mm box at a weight of 26kg, you get

  • a 3000 VA inverter,
  • 250V/70A MPPT solar charger,
  • two AC out 230V @13A,
  • a communication controller (GX) with Can bus. USB, network connections (wired, wireless),
  • a 230V AC/DC battery charger with a 35A DC output (rather small),
  • programmable relays;
  • everything to be monitored and administered via a tablet,
  • options for future expandability such as LTE and GPS exist.

Now this is rather impressive if you consider the price span of 2’248,00 CHF2’469,00 CHF.

Considering, both the Scotty and the US3000 also have a CAN bus interface, this really make a neat paclage, as all devices are able to talk to each other. More bang for the buck.

At least in theory. As I have not built it yet. But I think, this is a good starting point. I will contact the vendors to get a response if my setup is supported and if there are any reference installations on it.

Now you might wonder, how I would charge my other 12V devices, as I do not have a single 12V output in the setup. And yes, I thought about this too, and came to the conclusion: I do not need 12V output. Or sort of.

Compressor, winch etc I will power from the alternator directly. All the rest I will power via AC, such as the fridge, mobile, USB, notebook. This of course, comes with a penalty, as I have to convert the energy twice. But this also saves me an additional device and a lot of cabling and extra fuse boxes (and this is all saved space).

Now about the weight:

  • the inverter I already mentioned
    26kg: EasySolar-II 48/3000 GX
  • 64kg: 2* Pylontech US3000
  • plus additional devices, such as 12V/48V DC/DC converter, bus bar, fuses, cables,
  • future solar panels would come on top (no pun intended).

The van (2-seater) has a total loading capacity of 1080kg, so I think this is a justifiable weight for a pretty massive power system.

For connection of these systems, I opted for a bus bar with integrated fuses, the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor, though a back-to-back-cabling with extra fuse boxes would also have worked.

In case, the interaction with Safiery, Victron and Pylontech via CAN bus does not work out as expected, I would insert a Smart BatteryProtect BP-220 in front of the Scotty, so I can switch the converter on and off depending on the ATD and ATC signal in the EasySolar via a relay.

System diagram: Van Electricity

So these are my plans for the next van. I am curious, what response I get from the vendors and how it all works out.

In case you have questions or recommendations for improvement, I am more than happy to hear from you.