Electricity and our Saurer 2DM

This is sort of a never ending story for me – just as the installation of our workshop container on the truck bed by our trusty mechanic which has been “in the making” since October 2022.

It is clear that we want and need electricity in the container. Just how and how much is not clear yet. In the following, I will consider our rquirements and different apsects and constraints of the electrical installation to hopefully come to a conclusion. This is a rather dry article with a lot of numbers – so beware …

Here is what we know (or at least think we know):

  1. The truck has a 24V system
  2. Charging any “leisure” batteries via the truck engine on a regular basis does not seem to be a good idea, as the fuel consumption is already 33l/100km without the container (that makes an astonishing 8.56mpg in the UK)
  3. It is a EURO0 diesel so we will not be able to get into all the cities (regardless of its problematic weight, length, height and width anyway).
  4. Solar panels are still no real option (most of the time too way up in the North)
  5. Charging from an EVSE might not always be possible as most of these EVSEs are for cars and do not have space for trucks
  6. We want to be able to cook and wash in the vehicle
  7. We will have a 2kW diesel heater
  8. We will have a 900W single phase petrol generator
  9. We will be using Eve LF280K cells
  10. The inverter must at least provide 2'250VA or 1'800W (concurrently, but not neccessarily on a single phase)
  11. (optional) We would like to have 3-phase power in the container (as the cabling is already in place) – but also we know we would only use it very seldomly (such as for welding, then we need at least 11A per phase)
  12. We would like to be able to charge 60% of the batteries (from 20% to 80%) within 3h
  13. We will be using Victron MultiPlus-II (as we do not 2 separate AC inputs)

Here is a list of devices needing electricity:

  1. Refrigerator (able to run on 12V DC/24V DC or 230V AC)
  2. Microwave (1'000W)
  3. Water heater (immersion heater with 1'000W or 2'000W and/or kettle with 2'000W)
  4. Table grill (1'250W)
  5. Steam cooker (450W/900W)
  6. Bread baking machine (600W)
  7. Coffee machine (1'150W)
  8. Washing machine (750W)
  9. Water pressuriation system (850W)
  10. Computers peripherals (USB-C charging with 36W via AC or DC, or 60W AC)
  11. Lights (12V or 24V DC)
  12. Water pump (12V or 24V DC)
  13. Fan (12V or 24V DC)
  14. Diesel heater (12V DC)
  15. Starlink (60W AC, possibly 48V DC)
  16. Infrared heating panel (150W AC)
  17. Battery charger (12V/24V DC or 230V AC, depending on model)
  18. Other USB powered and/or chargeable devices (via 12V/24V DC or separate 230V AC charger)
  19. built-in 6t winch (powered by engine)
  20. (optional) electric shower (8'000W)

Sizing the electrical installation comes with a number of additional constraints:

  1. The crane in the workshop garage can lift up to 500kg
    this mean, all batteries, inverters, washine machine and water tanks must be less that weight
  2. No single battery can charge or discharge with more than 140A
  3. We can only charge from EVSEs with a Type 2 connector

A 12V system is very quickly out of the picture (and the largest and only MultiPlus-II with 12V is a 3’000VA system). Besides, the truck has 24V system anyway. So it is either 24V or 48V. Here is an overview of all current 24V and 48V MultiPlus-II models and their charge and discharge values:

MultiPlus-II 24V and 48V

Let’s first evaluate a 24V system:

Combination of 24V batteries and invertes
  1. 1* 8s battery
    • Capacity is likely to be too small
    • Single battery is not redundant
    • 1*3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 5’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  2. 2* 8s battery
    • 2* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 5’000VA possible
  3. 3* 8s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 3* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 2* 5’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  4. 4* 8s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 4* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current

So, in a 24V 1-phase system only the 5'000VA inverter would be possible with either 2 (14’336Wh) or 4 (28’673Wh) batteries.

For a 3-phase setup to support our Kemppi Kempact 253A we would need at least 4 batteries and 3* 5'000VA inverters.

And now let’s have a look at a 48V system where we have a couple of more inverter options:

Combination of 48V batteries and inverters
  1. 1* 16s battery
    • Single battery is not redundant
    • 2* 3’000VA inverters needed
    • 1* 5’000VA inverter possible
    • 1* 8’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 10’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 15’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  2. 2* 16s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 3’000VA not as 3-phase setup feasible (otherwise 6 devices necessary)
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 1* 10’000VA possible
    • 1* 15’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  3. 3* 16s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement cannot be met
    • charge requirement can only be met with 3-phase EVSE (16A or 32A) Type 2 (11kW+)
    • 3’000VA possible, but too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 5’000VA possible
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 10’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 15’000VA possible
  4. 4* 16s battery
    • batteries too heavy
    • 1-phase charge requirement cannot be met
    • charge requirement can only be met with 3-phase EVSE (16A or 32A) Type 2 (11kW+)
    • 3’000VA too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 5’000VA too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 10’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 15’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy

So, this leaves us with really 3+2 choices:

  1. 2* 8s (14’336Wh) batteries in a 1-phase system with a single 5’000VA inverter
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 140kg
  2. 2* 8s (14’336Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 250kg
    • Not possible for 3-phase welding
  3. 4* 8s (28’672Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 310kg
  4. 1* 16s (14’336Wh) battery in a 1-phase system with a single 5’000VA inverter
    • Battery and inverter would weigh roughly 140kg
  5. 2* 16s (28’672Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 310kg
    • 3h on a 1-phase 16A Type 2 would charge about 38% (a 60% charge takes 4.7h)

From there, we can narrow this down even further:

  1. 1-phase system: 24V, 2*8s
    • Price: batteries 2* 1’364GBP = 2’728CHF plus inverter 1* 1’359GBP total = 4'087GBP
      • Con: 24V MultiPlus-II are considerably more expensive (than 48V)
      • Con: only have the capacity
      • Con: cannot run electric shower
  2. 3-phase system: 48V, 2* 16s
    • Price: batteries 4* 1’364GBP = 5’456CHF plus inverter 3* 812GBP = 2’436GBP total = 8'802GBP
      • Con: charge requirement can only be met with 32A Type2 on 1-phase
      • Con: additional 48V|24V DC-DC converter required
      • Con: heavier, 300kg+
        Con: higher self-consumption in 3-phase configuration

So – drum roll – my conclusion: for roughly double the money in a 48V we would get double the capacity and triple the charge and output power and pretty much can do everything we want the system to be able to do.

The 3-phase system can be reconfigured to a parallel 1-phase system, so we would even be able to use an electric shower (though very unlikely – we have our mobile shower). We can either charge 1-phase or 3-phase and have a longer window of electric autarky. And for most of the time we would leave the system in a 1-phase single device InverterCharger configuration. And additionally, for charging the other 2 devices would bet set to ChargeOnly (but be configured independently configured from each other).

The exact setup I will have to layout some other time, but right out of my head I would think of the following components:

  1. External power in with CEE 16-5, CEE32-5, CEE32-1, CEE16-1 and Neutrik PowerCON True1 TOP (the more the better)
    connected to an ATS
  2. AC out from MultiPlus-II connected to ATS
  3. Orion-Tr 24V|48V DC-DC converter
    charging from alternator (though not the norm)
  4. Orion-Tr 48V|24V DC-DC converter
    as power supply: to support 24V loads in the container
    as charger: as an emergency charger for the truck batteries
  5. Lynx Power In, Distributor
  6. Venus OS with Raspberry PI for RS-486 and DVCC

So, in case our Saurer ever gets finished – at least I know how to do the electricity …

Electric Installation in our Toyota HiAce 1994

Now, that we got our Toyota HiAce we thought it might be a good idea to add more power to the vehicle: in form of an 8s EVE LF280K LiFePO4 battery and a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 inverter/charger. In the following, we describe our setup and the reason why we built it like this.

The Requirements

  1. The sustained output power of the inverter must be over 1'200W.
  2. Charging via AC via EVSE or generator must be possible.
  3. Charging via alternator must be possible (but is not the norm).
  4. Charging of 60% of the battery (from 20% – 80%) via AC should take less than 180min.
  5. The installation should use the minimum amount of space possible.
  6. We should be able to use our existing Eve LF280K cells, thus limiting the overall current to 140A.
  7. As the vehicle will not have a diesel heater, it should be possible to run a 150W infrared heater for at least 3 * (4+2)h = 18h (^= 2'700Wh).
  8. In addition, the battery should be able to run a refrigerator with an average power consumption of 50W for at least 72h ^= 3'600Wh (next to other power consumption).

Design Considerations

  • With a maximum current of 140A and a cable run length of 1.5m, we should plan with a cross section of at least 35mm2.
  • Basically, with Eve LF280K cells we have three choices regarding the battery size:
    • 1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
      4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 3'584Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 716.8W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
    • 2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration
      2* 4 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 112A/h.
    • 1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration
      8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
      This would lead to a required nominal AC charge power of at least 1'433.6W/h and a charge current of at least 56A/h.
  • The Victron MultiPlus Compact xx/1600VA inverter/charger provides enough sustained power output (while being smaller than the non-Compact edition). Depending on the voltage of the battery, this will slightly impact the amount of charge current.
  • To charge the battery via the alternator we would need a DC/DC converter that depends on the battery configuration as well (either 12-12 or 12-24). So, let’s have a look at the battery first.

1* 4s (“12V”) Configuration

The smallest, lightest and cheapest configuration. But capacity requirements regarding the fridge are only fulfilled, if there are no other loads. In addition, the discharge current is relatively high (scratching the maximum discharge rate of 0.5C).

2* 4s (“12V”) Configuration

More complex setup, as each battery needs a separate BMS, which leads to the need of an aggregator for both batteries to correctly report SoC and calculate CCL and DCL. In addition, more cabling and fusing is required (and probably to a large bus bar). Comes with the advantage of having a redundant battery in case a single battery fails. Most expensive configuration.

1* 8s (“24V”) Configuration

Custom battery build needed, as there is not enough space for a typical 2 * 4 cells setup behind he seats. But, only a single BMS and thus less wiring is needed. Comes with a slight disadvantage of not having native 12V from the battery. This is actually not an isse, as all our DC devices also accept 24V. Cells can better balance voltage differences across a single 8s bank.

The Setup

In the end, I decided for the 8s configuration, due to less complexity. Splitting the 8s configuration across two cell blocks seemed to be an acceptable compromise.

As a regular MultiPlus 24/1600/40-16 would not fulfill my AC charge requirements, I had to decide to either add a second MultiPlus or to add a dedicated charger. I opted for a Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger 24/25 instead of a second MultiPlus. The MultiPlus in parallel would always consume 10W though most of the time I would not need the output power. Whereas, the Phoenix would only need power, when connected to AC. And reconfiguring the MultiPlus every time I charge was not an option for me. And yes, I lose redundancy – but also save some money (Phoenix is much cheaper). So, in the end the nominal charge power is 40A + 25A = 65A, which lets me charge at 1'560W reaching 60% within 165min.

The HiAce comes with a 70A alternator, so I chose a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15 DC-DC Charger. With this charger, I could run the engine in standby and still have the car heater running. And this is probably the predominant use case (if charging via alternator at all).

For the DC bus bar I went for a Victron Lynx Distributor, so I could use and install MEGA fuses. Having a 1’000A bus bar seems certainly overkill, but a separate bus bar and fuse box that accepts 35mm2 cable and MEGA fuses would be not be much smaller.

I changed the existing AC inlet of the HiAce to Neutrik PowerCON True1 TOP (congrats to the marketing department, I am still amazed how this name rolls of the tongue) and installed 2 Siemens compact 16A C RCBOs (external AC in, internal AC out). I am aware that theoretically I could support more than 16A on the internal AC out (via PowerAssist). If ever needed, I can replace the RCBO with a 20A version.

I added a VE.Bus Smart Dongle to the MultiPlus and opted against a complete (Raspberry-based) GX installation. The reason, I keep a USB MK3 with me anyway (in case I need to reconfigure the MultiPlus) and still have (Bluetooth) access to the most important settings and information of the MultiPlus. With the GX, I would to be running a WiFi hotspot (and consuming more energy as well). The disadvanage of not being able to use DVCC with information from the BMS is clear to me and accepted.

I selected a B2A8S20P JK-BMS that has an integrated 2A balancer and an RS485, CAN and heat port. In case, I ever add a GX device, I am still able to connect them and use DVCC.

The Specs

  • Nominal power (“capacity”)
    8 * 3.2V * 280Ah = 7'168Wh
  • Maximum discharge power 1’600VA (1'280W, capped by the inverter)
    with a maximum current of 80A/63A/55A (at 2.5V/3.2V/3.65V)
  • Maximum AC charge power 1'560W
  • AC Charging from 20% – 80% in 165min
  • Maximum DC charge power 360W
  • MultiPlus self-power consumption 10W

The Build

As mentioned before, due to space constraints I had to split the battery in 2 parts (with each having 4 cells). Instead of using utz RAKO boxes I used 12mm (sanded) plywood which I did not screw together but tied down with a banding/tensioning tool and a ratchet strap. With this setup, I can easily access und disassemble the cells if needed, while still having a sturdy case. Both cell blocks are connected with a (blue) Anderson SB175 connector.

The BMS itself is mounted to the side of one of the cases (I took extra care to use short screws, in order not to drill into the cell casing). I used M6 Weidmüller 35mm2 90° angled compression cable lug to get the wire away from the BMS and into the bus bar. All other compression cable lugs are DIN 46235 from Klauke (M6 35mm2 on the cells, and M8 16mm2/35mm2 on the bus bar).

The AC and DC wires are all Eland H07RN-F (except for the last two points):

  • Charger to bus bar, battery to bus bar: 35mm2
  • Cell block to cell block: 2 * 35mm2
  • Alternator to DC-DC converter, DC-DC converter to bus bar: 16mm2
  • External AC in to RCBO, RCBO to inverter/charger (both directions), RCBO to internal AC out: 3G2.5mm2
  • For the balancer cables on the cell blocks I used WAGO 221 inline splicing connectors with levers and bullet connectors with 2.5mm2 wire and M6 ring terminals.
  • For the connection of the Inverter/charger to the bus bar, I used the Victron installed 25mm2 welding cables.

Images

The installation is barely visible behind the seats
View from the back with preliminary wiring
Connection of cell blocks with SB175 connectors, cell block 2 and DC-DC converter
Lynx Distributor with cell block 1
Inverter/charger with space for second charger and cell block 2 (left)

Note: the Phoenix charger is not visible on the images, as I am still waiting for it to be delivered.

Charging via EVSE

Conclusion

We now have more than 7'000Wh of additional energy without losing any storage space for roughly 2'850 CHF/2’500 GBP (parts without labour). We can survive an extended weekend of 72h without recharging while still being able to enjoy amenities as using a coffee machine, heating and refrigerator. In case of longer periods of usage, we can recharge at any EVSE, or via shore power. And in emergencies, we can also charge via our Honda EU10i or via the alternator of the vehicle.

The battery is placed directly over the engine which helps in cold weather conditions to easily warm up the batteries to a chargeable level.

The installation can be monitored via Bluetooth (Victron Connect and JK-BMS app).

Charging a leisure battery at a Tesco Superstore podPOINT

Some time ago, I wrote about charging leisure batteries at EV charging stations. Today, I was charging at the Tesco Superstore in Wick and got a tip from a neighbouring EV car driver: when you disconnect and reconnect your EV charger within 15min, charging is free of charge.

So, I gave it a try – and it worked. I topped up my battery with my CCS Type2 Neutrik adapter and I was not charged a penny!

Free charging at Tesco Superstore podPOINT

Why they do this is not totally clear to me. But hey, I am ok with that.

In the video below you see our Toyota “2er” Hiace 1994 retrofitted semi-electrical vehicle being charged at the podPOINT Ralf-Milo:

Charging a 24V Eve 8s LF280K battery at an EV charging station

Charging Leisure Batteries at Electric Vehicle Charging Stations

I am not the first and probably not the last, either. With leisure batteries becoming larger and larger, fuel becoming more and more expensive and the EV charging network better and better, I thought it was time to rethink charging leisure batteries in campervans, mobile homes and the like.

For example, in UK the Tesco run EV charging stations currently offer charging at 3700W/16A at 0.288 GBP/kW. This is actually cheaper than the rates I had last year when I rented a flat. And it is still slightly cheaper than the cost of power generation with my JCB generator.

As I restrict the charging of my EVE 280Ah cells to 125A, the maximum power to charge with is either 8* 3.2V * 125A = 3200W for a 8s 24V battery or 16* 3.2V * 125A = 6400W for a 16s 48V battery. But as of now, I only plan for 24V batteries in our vehicles. This means, that even with the lowest single phase Type 2 charger in a EV charging station we get more power (16A * 230V = 3680W) than the battery can be charged with.

With the help from Remo Fleischli of Mobilize I found two adapter cables from Elektroscout:

  1. A single phase Type 2 plug to a Swiss T23 socket, which I ordered with a “loose end” to connect a Neutrik powerCON TRUE1 TOP NAC3FX-W-TOP-L with it;
  2. and a single phase Type 2 socket to a Swiss T23 socket, which they call a “bike adapter” – this comes in handy at charging stations with a 3-phase Type 2 cable.

As a 24/3000 MultiPlus-II (or EasySolar-II) does only support charging of up to 70A (resulting in a nominal charging power of 24V * 70A = 1680W), we would still be 55A “short” of the desired maximum charge current of 125A. With the EasySolar-II GX or the MultiPlus-II GX there is no 24/5000 version and the MultiPlus-II 24/5000 uses considerably more power (18W vs 13W) and is way heavier (30kg vs 26kg [including MPPT charger] vs 20kg). In addition the inverter would be massively oversized as the maximum expected inverter power would be limited to 8* 3.65V * 125A = 3200W (^=4000VA), anyway.

So, I came to the conclusion the least expensive and space/cost-efficient solution would come in the form of a Victron Skylla-TG 24/50A Charger:

  1. Weight: 5.5kg
  2. Price around 500,00 GBP
  3. Dimensions: H 365mm * W 250mm * D 147mm

So, with the combined power of the EasySolar-II and the Skylla-TG (70A + 50A = 120A), I can now theoretically charge at 8 * 3.2V * 120A = 3072W – near the maximum supported power. As the charge current will probably reduce at around 80% SOC, my 24V battery can be charged from 40% to 80% within one hour – at a price of less than 30p per Kilowatt (or 90p the hour)!

Here a comparison with some smaller generators:

  1. a Honda EU10i will deliver 900W with 0.538l
    (around 1671W/l or 0.598l per 1000W)
  2. a Honda EU22i will deliver 1800W with 1.075l
    (around 1675W/l or 0.597l per 1000W)
  3. a Honda EU32i will deliver 2600W with 1.394l
    (around 1865W/l or 0.536l per 1000W)

If one liter of E7 costs roughly 1.50 GBP, the price per 1000W is between 0.80 GBP and 0.90 GBP.

Comparison of different charging options

And with a standard vehicle alternator of 100A the maximum charge current for a battery would not exceed 60A. So, a realistic amount of power to charge the battery with a running engine is around 12V * 60A = 720W. If we expect the vehicle to use 2l per hour running idle, the price for 1000W would sum up to over 4.17 GBP – not cheap.

Only the Honda EU32i comes near to the maximum charging power of 3200W/h. But the initial cost for the inverter and the price per 1000W is far beyond the cost of an additional AC charger, a Type 2 adapter and the energy cost at the EV charging station. And ideally, the energy from the EV charging station is “greener” than the energy from the vehicle or stand-alone generator.

Note: I did not write about solar panels at all. The reason for this is our special “use case” where we are mainly in northern europe where during autumn and winter there are very little hours of sunlight – at a time when we need energy the most. Plus, only two of our vehicles have actually space on the roof for solar panels.

This is my current take on charging larger leisure batteries. What is your opinion on this?