Author: Ronald Rink

I am a senior auditor, consultant and architect at d-fens for business processes and information systems.

Ground Floor completed

With Christmas on the missing doorsteps (pun intended) we now have completed the ground floor of our tiny-house-in-barn. See for yourself …

  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default
  • default

Here is a complete view of the shed-to-be from different perspectives.

Overview

Page-Global-OverviewDownload

Ground Floor

Page-G-OverviewDownload
Page-G-Foundation001Download
Page-G-Frame001Download
Page-G-Frame002Download
Page-G-FloorDownload
Page-G-North001Download
Page-G-North002Download
Page-G-South001Download
Page-G-South002Download
Page-G-South003Download
Page-G-South004Download
Page-G-East001Download
Page-G-East002Download
Page-G-East003Download
Page-G-West001Download
Page-G-West002Download
Page-G-West003Download
Page-G-EastHall001Download
Page-G-WestHall001Download
Page-G-WestHall002Download
Page-G-WestHall003Download
Page-G-MiddleEast001Download
Page-G-MiddleWest001Download
Page-G-MiddleWest002Download

First Floor

Page-F-OverviewDownload
Page-F-FrameDownload
Page-F-WestHallDownload
Page-F-MiddleWestDownload

A look into Siglent SDS2000X Plus Software Options

In this article, we have a look into the software options of the Siglent SDS2000X Plus digitial oscilloscope series.

The SDS2000X Plus series has been around for quite some time and – while still on sale – has been superseded by the Siglent SDS2000X HD series. It consists of a 2-channel entry model and three 4-channel models with varying bandwidth (100MHz, 200MHz, 350MHz). Interestingly the hardware in these models is exactly the same (with the one exception of the 2-channel model only having a single acquisition unit). For more details have a look at this video where the device is taken apart:

EEVblog #1309 – Siglent SDS2000X Plus Scope Teardown+Hack

As mentioned in the video, there seems to be the possibilty to upgrade the bandwidth of the oscilloscope to up to 500MHz and additionally unlock a few other options. According to the manufacturer’s web site the value of the software options can add up quite considerably to a multiple of the actual oscilloscope:

Siglent SDS2000X Plus software options

The author of the video, which partially seems to divide its audience by its tonal pitch, remains cryptic about on how to actually do this but only refers to a post on this forum. So the question remains, is this really doable? and if yes, how does it work?

Note1: In case someone is wondering if it is allowed to generate software keys, an option might be to contact the manufacturer to get clarification on this subject.

Note2: I bought my scope with a couple of software options. So, no need for me to generate keys, I would not have otherwise.

A Siglent SDS2104X in action

The questions

According to the forum there seems to exist confusion about the following areas:

  1. What is the SCOPEID?
    The SCOPEID is the 16-digit value you find when you open Utility, System Info and strip of the dash characters from “Scope ID“.
  2. What is the Model?
    According to this video the model just stays as it is. So no replacing of the pre-defined value at all (regardless of the actual model we have).
  3. Which firmware versions work with it? And do I have to downgrade first?
    As it we can read from the Siglent SDS2000X Plus Release Notes, beginning with v1.3.9R10 no downgrade can be done to any version older than that version. In the previously mentioned video we see that exactly that version is used for the demonstration.
  4. Which keys (based on bwopt) work for which option?
    The script generates keys that do not necessarily match 1:1 to the options in the oscilloscope. But a look and search into the user manual reveals that the abbreviations in the script correspond to the product numbers. So for example, MSO is the abbreviation for the 16-channel logic analyser option. However, some keys generated by the script do not seem to have any corresponding sotware option at all (such as MAX or WIFI).
  5. How to generate keys for options originally not included in the script (eg. MANC, SENT)?
    There are options present, especially the MANCH and SENT option, that are not being generted by the script at all. All one would have to do, is to add MANC (mind the missing ‘h‘) and SENT to the array of bwopt and have to re-run the script.
  6. Is there any order in applying the software option keys? Or anything else to consider?
    Everytime a new key is entered, immediate feedback on the screen shows if a key was accepted as valid. A reboot seems to be required to activate the associated function. However, it is not problem at all to insert multiple keys or software options without rebooting.
    A special note about the bandwidth option: as one can see from the web site, it is not possible to buy a 500MHz license upgrade for a SDS2104X. Only the 200MHz option is available. After appliying an upgrade the actual model number of the oscilloscope changes as well and a new bandwidth option appears for that new model. So essentially, an upgrade on a SDS2104X to a 500MHz version (SDS2504X) must be done via these intermediate steps: 200MHz, 350MHz, 500MHz. In the end, only the label printed onto the oscilloscope shows its true origin.
    An upgrade to a more recent version of the firmware afterwards is possible but optional.
    Note1: after upgrading to 500MHz there is no more bandwidth option thus reducing the number of license options by one. I mention this, in case you thought something went missing.
    Note2: the standard probes only work up to 200MHz and also the high-end probe goes only up to 350MHz. So, in order to be really able to use the full 500MHz one probably has to get hold of an active probe.

The script

The script itself is pretty basic. The magic MD5 hashkey is being mangled with the Model and the SCOPEID. And then for each bwopt a new key is generated. Interestingly, the gen function never makes use of its parameter x and opt is implicitly referenced from the global scope.

Code from replit.com linked by miyagi

The conclusion

Essentially, this has been a story about weak license keys. Though it might seem perfectly doable to generate keys for software options without reyling on the manufacturer, this is not something that can be generally recommended.

Custom flexible busbars versus pre-built busbars for LiFePO4 cells

Since we started building our own batteries we have been using custom busbars made of Klauke DIN 46235 M6 compression cable lugs and Eland 35mm2 H07RN-F copper wire cable. The initial reason for this having no busbars that really fitted the way we arranged the cells in our utz RAKO boxes (see here, here and here).

I never actually measured the difference in internal resistance of the ones we built and some we got with our EVE LF280K cells. Time to correct this …

The flexible busbars delivered with our cells have approximately these dimensions: 105mm * 20mm * 2mm. This should give us a surface area of 40mm2 and an ideal internal resistance of around 0.045mOhm (according to some online calculators).

When measuring this with our trusty and highly precise TR1035+ the result displayed is 0.08mOhm.

Pre-built busbars 105mm * 20mm * 2mm

The Klauke version which comes with tinned copper lugs gives us a reading of 0.06mOhm – despite the smaller cross-section of 35mm2. The ideal internal resistance of the copper wire could be expected to be around 0.051mOhm (according to some other online calculator), so we are much closer to the measured value.

Custom busbar 105mm * 35mm2

The display error of the TR1035+ is expected to be similar as the measured range of both busbars is quite similar. There is certainly quite an amount of uncertainty (not only due to the maximum resolution of 10uOhm) to it. But it is interesting to see that the resistance of the custom busbars seems to be lower despite its smaller cross-section – while being better insulated (not seen on the picture) and more flexible at the same time (as it can be bent in more directions).

Producing these custom busbars is certainly more expensive (a single lug costs around 1.17GBP or 1.27CHF) and involves more manual and time consuming labour. However, it is quite easy to double them and/or increase its cross-section to up to 70mm2 per wire (when using multi-stranded DIN EN 60228 conductors).

So, this is it for today with fascinating facts about busbars for LiFePO4 cells.

The Platform is finally done

Last year in December, I started the drawings (with FreeCAD) for our “house-in-house” build: a wooden compartment inside our barn for electricity, water, storage and the like. But somehow, I never started it because of my mental concrete block (pun intended). This changed when a colleague of ours came by and helped me with laying the concrete pads. And from there we did the frame and the floor in less than 2 days – thanks to our Milwaukee Nailer and Larry Haun with his book The very efficient Carpenter.

Of course, there were some gotchas and mistakes needed to be fixed. But all in all it went really well. So well, that in fact we could have our first BBQ on the new platform (and not in the dust as usual).

So, below you find some pictures and drawings of the “house-in-house” and the making of the platform of the ground floor.

Overview of ground floor

Ground floor frame resting on pads
Frame of ground floor
Getting the pads in place
Starting with the frame
Nails – the more, the better
Now only the blocks are missing
Inspection of our work so far
The frame is done
Ground floor with the first tow of OSB sheets
Getting somewhere
Finally, a table not in the dust

Electricity and our Saurer 2DM

This is sort of a never ending story for me – just as the installation of our workshop container on the truck bed by our trusty mechanic which has been “in the making” since October 2022.

It is clear that we want and need electricity in the container. Just how and how much is not clear yet. In the following, I will consider our rquirements and different apsects and constraints of the electrical installation to hopefully come to a conclusion. This is a rather dry article with a lot of numbers – so beware …

Here is what we know (or at least think we know):

  1. The truck has a 24V system
  2. Charging any “leisure” batteries via the truck engine on a regular basis does not seem to be a good idea, as the fuel consumption is already 33l/100km without the container (that makes an astonishing 8.56mpg in the UK)
  3. It is a EURO0 diesel so we will not be able to get into all the cities (regardless of its problematic weight, length, height and width anyway).
  4. Solar panels are still no real option (most of the time too way up in the North)
  5. Charging from an EVSE might not always be possible as most of these EVSEs are for cars and do not have space for trucks
  6. We want to be able to cook and wash in the vehicle
  7. We will have a 2kW diesel heater
  8. We will have a 900W single phase petrol generator
  9. We will be using Eve LF280K cells
  10. The inverter must at least provide 2'250VA or 1'800W (concurrently, but not neccessarily on a single phase)
  11. (optional) We would like to have 3-phase power in the container (as the cabling is already in place) – but also we know we would only use it very seldomly (such as for welding, then we need at least 11A per phase)
  12. We would like to be able to charge 60% of the batteries (from 20% to 80%) within 3h
  13. We will be using Victron MultiPlus-II (as we do not 2 separate AC inputs)

Here is a list of devices needing electricity:

  1. Refrigerator (able to run on 12V DC/24V DC or 230V AC)
  2. Microwave (1'000W)
  3. Water heater (immersion heater with 1'000W or 2'000W and/or kettle with 2'000W)
  4. Table grill (1'250W)
  5. Steam cooker (450W/900W)
  6. Bread baking machine (600W)
  7. Coffee machine (1'150W)
  8. Washing machine (750W)
  9. Water pressuriation system (850W)
  10. Computers peripherals (USB-C charging with 36W via AC or DC, or 60W AC)
  11. Lights (12V or 24V DC)
  12. Water pump (12V or 24V DC)
  13. Fan (12V or 24V DC)
  14. Diesel heater (12V DC)
  15. Starlink (60W AC, possibly 48V DC)
  16. Infrared heating panel (150W AC)
  17. Battery charger (12V/24V DC or 230V AC, depending on model)
  18. Other USB powered and/or chargeable devices (via 12V/24V DC or separate 230V AC charger)
  19. built-in 6t winch (powered by engine)
  20. (optional) electric shower (8'000W)

Sizing the electrical installation comes with a number of additional constraints:

  1. The crane in the workshop garage can lift up to 500kg
    this mean, all batteries, inverters, washine machine and water tanks must be less that weight
  2. No single battery can charge or discharge with more than 140A
  3. We can only charge from EVSEs with a Type 2 connector

A 12V system is very quickly out of the picture (and the largest and only MultiPlus-II with 12V is a 3’000VA system). Besides, the truck has 24V system anyway. So it is either 24V or 48V. Here is an overview of all current 24V and 48V MultiPlus-II models and their charge and discharge values:

MultiPlus-II 24V and 48V

Let’s first evaluate a 24V system:

Combination of 24V batteries and invertes
  1. 1* 8s battery
    • Capacity is likely to be too small
    • Single battery is not redundant
    • 1*3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 5’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  2. 2* 8s battery
    • 2* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 5’000VA possible
  3. 3* 8s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 3* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 2* 5’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  4. 4* 8s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 4* 3’000VA can draw too much discharge current

So, in a 24V 1-phase system only the 5'000VA inverter would be possible with either 2 (14’336Wh) or 4 (28’673Wh) batteries.

For a 3-phase setup to support our Kemppi Kempact 253A we would need at least 4 batteries and 3* 5'000VA inverters.

And now let’s have a look at a 48V system where we have a couple of more inverter options:

Combination of 48V batteries and inverters
  1. 1* 16s battery
    • Single battery is not redundant
    • 2* 3’000VA inverters needed
    • 1* 5’000VA inverter possible
    • 1* 8’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 10’000VA can draw too much discharge current
    • 1* 15’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  2. 2* 16s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement can only be met with EVSE 7kW 32A Type 2
    • 3’000VA not as 3-phase setup feasible (otherwise 6 devices necessary)
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 1* 10’000VA possible
    • 1* 15’000VA can draw too much discharge current
  3. 3* 16s battery
    • 1-phase charge requirement cannot be met
    • charge requirement can only be met with 3-phase EVSE (16A or 32A) Type 2 (11kW+)
    • 3’000VA possible, but too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 5’000VA possible
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 10’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 15’000VA possible
  4. 4* 16s battery
    • batteries too heavy
    • 1-phase charge requirement cannot be met
    • charge requirement can only be met with 3-phase EVSE (16A or 32A) Type 2 (11kW+)
    • 3’000VA too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 5’000VA too heavy with combined battery weight
    • 8’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 10’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy
    • 15’000VA only as 3-phase setup, but then too heavy

So, this leaves us with really 3+2 choices:

  1. 2* 8s (14’336Wh) batteries in a 1-phase system with a single 5’000VA inverter
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 140kg
  2. 2* 8s (14’336Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 250kg
    • Not possible for 3-phase welding
  3. 4* 8s (28’672Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 310kg
  4. 1* 16s (14’336Wh) battery in a 1-phase system with a single 5’000VA inverter
    • Battery and inverter would weigh roughly 140kg
  5. 2* 16s (28’672Wh) batteries in a 3-phase system with three 5’000VA inverters
    • Battery and inverters would weigh roughly 310kg
    • 3h on a 1-phase 16A Type 2 would charge about 38% (a 60% charge takes 4.7h)

From there, we can narrow this down even further:

  1. 1-phase system: 24V, 2*8s
    • Price: batteries 2* 1’364GBP = 2’728CHF plus inverter 1* 1’359GBP total = 4'087GBP
      • Con: 24V MultiPlus-II are considerably more expensive (than 48V)
      • Con: only have the capacity
      • Con: cannot run electric shower
  2. 3-phase system: 48V, 2* 16s
    • Price: batteries 4* 1’364GBP = 5’456CHF plus inverter 3* 812GBP = 2’436GBP total = 8'802GBP
      • Con: charge requirement can only be met with 32A Type2 on 1-phase
      • Con: additional 48V|24V DC-DC converter required
      • Con: heavier, 300kg+
        Con: higher self-consumption in 3-phase configuration

So – drum roll – my conclusion: for roughly double the money in a 48V we would get double the capacity and triple the charge and output power and pretty much can do everything we want the system to be able to do.

The 3-phase system can be reconfigured to a parallel 1-phase system, so we would even be able to use an electric shower (though very unlikely – we have our mobile shower). We can either charge 1-phase or 3-phase and have a longer window of electric autarky. And for most of the time we would leave the system in a 1-phase single device InverterCharger configuration. And additionally, for charging the other 2 devices would bet set to ChargeOnly (but be configured independently configured from each other).

The exact setup I will have to layout some other time, but right out of my head I would think of the following components:

  1. External power in with CEE 16-5, CEE32-5, CEE32-1, CEE16-1 and Neutrik PowerCON True1 TOP (the more the better)
    connected to an ATS
  2. AC out from MultiPlus-II connected to ATS
  3. Orion-Tr 24V|48V DC-DC converter
    charging from alternator (though not the norm)
  4. Orion-Tr 48V|24V DC-DC converter
    as power supply: to support 24V loads in the container
    as charger: as an emergency charger for the truck batteries
  5. Lynx Power In, Distributor
  6. Venus OS with Raspberry PI for RS-486 and DVCC

So, in case our Saurer ever gets finished – at least I know how to do the electricity …

The way of the bin

Finally, they arrived! We now have bins from the Highland Council. This means, we no longer have to drive to the Wick Recycling Centre to dipose our waste. What a convenience! For us this is another milestone (after getting a postal address, the Planning and the barn built).

Our bins delivered by the Highland Council

As our plot is not exactly reachable by the bin men we now drive them to the main road – 440m to be exact. Though this may sound tiresome, but it is still way faster than to drive to the recycling centre.

From here to there (copyright OSMaps)
The path our bins take to get emptied (copyright OSMaps)

Building a battery case for an 16s Eve LF280K configuration

The other day, I realised that I never wrote about the case build of our 16s 48V batteries, as I did for the 8s case and the 4s case. So, here it is – and I am actually describing 2 revisions as we made some adjustments.

First, the total weight of the cells alone would be roughly 16 * 5.3kg ~ 85kg. This is way beyond what a single person can – or at least should – lift. So, I deciced to split the battery into 2 separate cell blocks of 8 cells each (similar as I did split the 8s battery in the Toyota HiAce). With this approach, I would be able to:

  • reuse the 8s design (including the RAKO boxes)
  • be able to move or lift half a battery (which weighs roughly 53kg)

This battery has a nominal capacity of 3.2V * 16 * 280Ah = 14'336Wh and can be charged or discharge with up to 140A ^= 7'168W. We currently have 2 of these batteries running on our 3-phase setup with 3 * Victron MultiPlus-II 48/5000/70-50.

So essentially, I built 2 8s batteries with a connection cable between cells 8 and 9. The main negative and the BMS would be in one box and the main positive with the DC breakers would be in the other box. To avoid confusion, in this setup I went for coloured Anderson SB175 housings, with

  • Red
    2 * 35mm2 H07RN-F cable main positive
  • Grey
    2 * 35mm2 H07RN-F cable main negative
  • Blue
    Interconnecting both blocks
    2 * 35mm2 H07RN-F cable connecting from cell 9 positive to cell 8 negative

In all cases

16s Battery Connectors

To connect the cells to the BMS balancer cables I extended the balancer cables with 2.5mm2 wire via WAGO 221-2411 inline splicing connectors. I then measured the increased resistance of the additional cable length and adjusted the values in the BMS configuration for cells 1 to 9.

With these inline connectors I am now able to disconnect the blocks from each other so I can move them around independently, if needed.

On the BMS, I connected a USB RS-485 TTL adapater with a USB extension cable which leads to one of the USB ports of the Victron Cerbo GX. With the help of dbus-serialbattery and BatteryAggregator I can control the DVCC settings in Venus OS.

The rest of the build is, as I already mentioned, pretty much like the 8s build.

Revision 1

Here are some images of the completed build of revision 1.

16s Battery top view
16s Battery Block 1 main negative with BMS
16s Battery Block 2 main positive with DC breaker

Revision 2

These are the changes I am currently making for the next revision:

  • add additional connectors for the balancer cables to further facilitate the disconnection of both blocks;
  • use 16mm2 M6 Klauke DIN46235 compression cable lugs for the connection of the main negative (cell 16) to the B- of the BMS (only relevant to the older JK-BMS), to be able to disconnect and potentionally replace the BMS;
  • use a WAGO 35mm2 DIN rail connector in the main negative block on cell 1/9 for the outgoing cable;
  • use cable glands on the external connections;
    (this allows for easy disconnection and re-building the block as an 8s battery);
  • use ratchet straps for compressing and mounting the cells to enable easier maintainability of the cells;
  • use Anderson PowerPole PP180 connectors instead of SB175, so I can use mounting plates for the PP180 and do not have dangling cables on the outside of the case
    (these connectors are expensive and increase the price of the overall build by roughly 60GBP).

Hyundai HY1000Si as a cheaper replacement for the Honda EU10i

In one of our previous articles I wrote about the Honda EU10i as a backup generator for charging batteries via a Victron MultiPlus. Now as the supply chain has stabilised, the only noticable downside of this generator, that it will set you back a 1'000+ CHF (and even 1'000+ GBP in the UK). As we plan to equip our HiAce, Hilux, 2DM and possibly our trailer with such a generator this really adds up. So, I started looking for something cheaper – but hopefully equally robust, enduring and sturdy.

The requirements were basically unchanged. We want a generator that

  • is light
    less than 20kg including fuel
  • has a sustainable output of over 3.5A @230V
    as the MultiPlus-II 48/5000/70 has a minimum AC input limit of 3.5A
  • in combination with a MultiPlus 1600VA and PowerAssist must be able to provide more than 2'000W
    (which is already fulfilled when delivering more than 3.5A by itself)
  • generates more than 1'000Wh/l
  • must have an internal tank
  • generates more than 8'500Wh with the internal tank and an additional 5l tank
  • must be running petrol or diesel (the latter very unlikely in that weight range)
  • should be quiet
    the less noisy the better, no hard specs here
  • (optional) can be paired with another model to double the output
  • must have an automatic shutdown in case of oil issues and overload
  • must have an ECO mode
  • manual starter
    i.e. no battery needed for starting the generator
  • a seller with a service center from UK, CH or EU (preferrably DE/AT) for filing warranty claims if necessary

On AliExpress, eBay and Amazon there are quite some models for very little money. However, I also have very little trust (if there is such thing at all) in those product offerings.

So, when I did some modern research (i.e. googling around the internet) I came across three models:

  1. Hyundai HY1000Si (350 GBP)
  2. P1PE P1000i (300 GBP)
    formally known as Position One Power Equipment (kudos to the marketing department for such an intriguing brand name)
  3. Scheppach SG800 (200 EUR)

But before I go into detail here is a summary of the comparison:

Comparison of selected generators

Hyundai HY1000Si

This is the model I am most likely to buy (if I want to save money over buying the Honda EU10i).

Except for size, weight and price all its specs do not match the Honda EU10i (regardless of the slightly larger tank).

With a total advertised runtime of 3h it can produce 2'700W (which is the equivalent of roughly over a third of the nominal capacity of an 8s 280Ah battery – compared to nearly a half for the EU10i).

So unless we intend to use the generator only seldomly this would make a real (negative) difference in:

  • usability
    more frequent usage pattern, more refuelling operations
  • maintainability
    due to more service hours and material wear-off
    and efficiency
    longer runtime, more fuel consumption, more labour.

Compared to the Honda EU10i (which some consider the “gold standard”) there is relatively little information to be found about this generator (especially no thorough reviews).

Further note: From the advertised information the generator comes with some tools and replacement parts and even oil (which is an advantage over the Honda).

P1PE P1000i

Not a brand I have heard from before. It is a brand in the UK sold by the same company, GenPower Ltd, that is also the distributor for the Hyundai generators. And they heavily claim to use Hyundai engines as well. So much in fact, that at first sight it seems they *are* Hyundai generators.

The data sheet is to be questioned. A total runtime of 8.5h @50% load is advertised and no mentioning of any fuel consumption at 100% load. In the data sheet a fuel consumption of 550g/kWh is mentioned. With a specific weight of 740g/l for petrol this would equate to 0.74l/kWh which is not in line with the previous statement of 8.5h of runtime at 450W which would result in 0.78l/kWh. This would only “add up” with an assumed specific weight of 700g/l. And with petrols like E7 or E10 the specific weight will more likely further increase as in reduce. Furthermore, a generator running at 100% load is not expected to be as efficient as if it was running at 50% load. I am not saying that the 40ml/h make so much of a difference (it is slightly 5% off). I just get curious when the technical data sheet more looks like a marketing brochure. So, I would rather estimate a runtime of 4h at full load which would result in 0.83l/kWh or 1204Wh/l.

As P1PE seems to use the same Hyundai engines their increased efficiency over the HY1000Si would have to be in the “inverter” or electronics part of the generator. I do not find it likely that the cheaper model would have more efficient ingredients than the Hyundai model.

Scheppach SG800

A brand I have not heard from before either. Efficiency is not its strength and as I did not find it anywhere stocked, I merely list it here as an interesting option because of its form factor.

With only 800W this generator seems to be on the weaker end. But with only 8.5kg and a 3l tank it makes it up for its lack of efficiency and output capacity.

This might be an option where one really only rarely uses the generator. And then only to charge a battery (which is exactly what we aim for).

The price is debatable as I could not find it anywhere ready for order.

Summary

The choice for these small generators is rather small. If we were open for larger and heavier models the 2'000W range of inverters would provide a much broader selection (also with a higher price tag).

So, to come to a conclusion: it’s mainly price over efficiency and loudness. Is the spending of 2.5 times more justified for a generator which I only want to use in edge cases? For our use case, probably not.

WMF Lono Quadro mobile BBQ and the Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16

Though this could have been our first “unboxing blog post” in this article we only describe an already unboxed table grill.

Being able to have fires in the open less and less often it was time to find an electric BBQ alternative – with the constraint that it should run on a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 (or any other 1600VA sized inverter). After some frustration we finally found a nearly perfect match: the WMF Lono Quadro.

According to its spec sheet and product brochure, it uses 1250W – which is just under the nominal maximum power of 1280W that the MultiPlus can deliver.

Plus, the BBQ is relatively cheap. With a MRSP of 79.99 EUR it is available for as low as 60 EUR (PP included depending on your location). So, we ordered one of these table grills and gave it a try.

Upon powering up the device it uses its full power (regardless of the dial setting 1 .. 5) which results in a current draw of around 50A as seen on the BMS. The setting of the dial only seems to affect the intervals between heating (drawing current at 50A) and not heating (not drawing current at all).

The initial heating phase lasts naturally longer which results in the fan of the inverter kicking in at some point. But once the BBQ is at its operating temperature the fan is silent most of the time (as the heating intervals are relatively short). With 1250W nominal power consumption and a heat-up time of around 5min this consumes roughly 104Wh – about the same energy to boild 1.1l of water from 20°C.

During the use of the BBQ the inverter is pretty much at its power maximum and so has little to no resources left to power anything else. Though it seems possible to leave a fridge running, it might be better to unplug any consumers during cooking.

But all in all, with this table grill we now can do the BBQ inside (or outside) in our Toyota HiAce – even when we are on the move.

Some additional observations:

  • Weight
    The device is relatively heavy – especially the grill plate.
  • Size
    The usable size of the BBQ (270mm x 270mm) in relation to its overall dimensions seems quite large (while the whole device is still not bulky).
  • Power consumption
    Though the power consumption is rated at 1250W the heating intervals are relatively short which turn leads to a moderate overall power consumption.
  • Cleaning
    The grill plate can easily be removed and thus easily be removed (even in a dishwasher if you happen to have one in your car). Also, the drip tray can easily be removed and cleaned. Only the base plate is not meant for dishwashing.
  • Drip tray
    If the BBQ is not positioned horizontally (maybe due to the parking position of the vehicle) then the drip tray might have difficulties to catch all the fat that might float around the grill plate.

And this is it for today. Happy BBQing …

WMF Lono Quadro running from a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16 at roughly 1250W/50A
Heat-up time is roughly 5min when turning the dial to the maximum position

Limiting the AC input of a Phoenix Smart Charger in parallel with a MultiPlus Compact

In a previous article I described the electric installation in our Toyota HiAce with a 24V battery and a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24/1600/40-16. At that point one piece was still missing: the Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger 24/25. It finally arrived this weekend and so it was time to install it; and configure it – which is normally not something worth going into lengthy detail.

However, in this case we wanted a kind of “special” setup which included the use of MultiPlus Assistants. So, in this article I will quickly describe what we wanted to achieve and how we implemented it.

In general, when connected to shore power we want to be able to limit the AC current drawn from the shore power. This is easily accomplished by setting a limit on the MultiPlus itself – or, as in our case, via the VE.Bus Smart Dongle. Though the Phoenix does have a VE.Direct interface and is able to be connected to a GX device, in our setup we did not want to use a GX device. So, essentially the Phoenix can only be controlled via Bluetooth and the VictronConnect app. But configuring the AC input limit on two devices (Phoenix and MultiPlus) is not only a nuisance from a usability standpoint, but also error-prone as one (or at least we) tend to forget things quickly. So, a different and better solution was needed.

Enter the MultiPlus Assistant in form of the Programmable Relay. With this, we can configure the built-in relay of the MultiPlus to open and close based on the availability of an AC input.

Note: we have to disable “Virtual Switch” in the MultiPlus to be able to use the MultiPlus Assistant.

The Phoenix has a Remote Input connector, that can be used to stop charging when the connection is “off”. So in our case, we enabled two Programmable Relay assistants:

  1. Programmable Relay, NC – On/Open
    After 5 seconds of AC input on the MultiPlus the relay is opened.
  2. Programmable Relay, NC – Off/Closed
    After 1 second of no AC input on the MultiPlus the relay is closed (which is the default state).

The wiring is as easy as to connect:

  • MultiPlus Relay COM < — > Phoenix Remote Input L
  • MultiPlus Relay NC < — > Phoenix Remote Input H

Note: on this page you find a description where the relay is located in the different MultiPlus models.

Below you find some screenshots with the configuration in VE Configure:

Disable Virtual Switch on MultiPlus
Add 2 Progammable Relay assistants
Programmable Relay ON after 5 seconds
Programmable Relay OFF after 1 second

So, five seconds after the MultiPlus has power via AC input it will open the relay which in turn will enable the Phoenix to start charging.

One second after AC input is gone the MultiPlus will close the relay so the Phoenix will stop charing (if it was charging at all).

The AC input of the Phoenix is connected to the AC output of the MultiPlus. So, when there is a AC input limit configured on the MultiPlus (such as 3A @230V) the MultiPlus and the Phoenix will not be able to charge with more than 3A. And from the MultiPlus perspective, the Phoenix is just an arbitrary consumer.

This can lead to some undesired behaviour if we were to limit the AC input to e.g. 1A. In this case, the MultiPlus would – when in Inverter mode – draw from the battery so the Phoenix could charge the battery. perpetuum mobile … ? And when the AC input is gone, this means that for roughly one second the Phoenix will also charge form the battery. But this is something I can live with easily.

And if we really had a very low power AC input (of e.g. 1A) we can still unplug the remote input and force the Phoenix not to charge. Or manually switch the MultiPlus to Charger mode only.

For us this is a usable solution without the need for multiple configuration changes nor the presence of a GX device.